Recently we had an opportunity to try out the granite rocks of Zillertal in Austrian Tyrol. We didn’t stay there for long due to bad weather conditions. But a couple of days gave us a chance of knowing a few things about this place.
Summary: mixed weather, no hot days but very often rainy, cheap wild camping or expensive exclusive camping farther from the rocks, climbing in granite – very technical with great friction.
It’s weird. If you are used to climbing traditional Spanish sport routes, like El Chorro, Rodellar or Osp. Then you’ll be surprised, this is a totally different story. More like mountain climbing, except the bolting is like on the sport routes. Usually you lack the strength or stamina to complete a desired route in some region. Here it’s usually the technic. The moves and the whole routes are very technical. If you figure it out, it gets easier and easier. But at first it’s tricky. The friction of the rock is great. Your shoes and skin will feel that, but it’s an advantage during the climb.
It’s Austria, the upper part (about 1000 – 1200 meters above sea level). So if Spain is too hot for you in the summer, this is more like it. I like climbing in the t-shirt or longsleeve it is the best temperature for difficult sport climbing. Unfortunately the weather is very mountainish… We had some rain almost every day. It’s normal, the mountains, fast & rapid changes of weather. But if a stable, sunny sky is a must for you, you won’t like it here.
The comfort version is camping in Mayrhofen. The economic version is camping near the rocks in the valley. Camping is strictly forbidden. But there is an unwritten rule, that climbers may camp on a parking near the rocks: (If you want that rule to stay the same, please take all of your litter with you. Some motherF-s didn’t do that recently. So the climbs beyond the river are closed for now)
On the above map, you can see two ways of getting to the parking from Mayrhofen. One of them is by the tunnel under some mountain, the other is around that mountain.
If it gets too rainy for you, you can always visit Arco. It’s not far from here, and the weather is certainly much better.